Ana Beloso on Buying Fish Before You Cook It

What's the biggest mistake people make buying fish?

Trusting the date on the label more than their own senses. Smell it, look at the eyes if it's whole, press the flesh if you can. The label tells you when it arrived, not necessarily how it's holding up.

Does farmed versus wild matter as much as people think?

Less than freshness does. A well-raised farmed fish, properly handled, will usually beat a wild fish that's three days past its best. People fixate on the wrong variable.

What's an underrated fish home cooks should try?

Mackerel. It's inexpensive, it's sustainable in most places, and it has enough flavor that it doesn't need much to be genuinely good.

Any advice for someone intimidated by cooking fish at home?

Buy less than you think you need the first few times. A smaller piece is more forgiving, and it lowers the stakes enough to actually learn from the mistakes.